Lenin Peak 7134 m

Mountaineering Expedition

Best season: July 15 - August 25

Prices 2013:

Standard programme Bishkek-Bishkek (21 days):	EUR 800 per person
Standard programme Osh-Osh (19 days):	EUR 595 per person
Budget programme (19 days):	EUR 250 per person

Scheme of standard program Bishkek-Bishkek
Days	Itinerary	Accommodation
1.	International flight to Bishkek.	-
2.	Arrival in Bishkek. Domestic morning flight to Osh.	Hotel 3*
3.	Transfer Osh - Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700 m).	Base Camp Tents
4-18.	Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).	-
19.	Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp to Osh.	Hotel 3*
20.	Domestic flight to Bishkek. Transfer to the hotel.	Hotel 3*
21.	International flight from Bishkek.	-

Scheme of standard program Osh-Osh
Days	Itinerary	Accommodation
1.	International flight to Osh (directly from Russia (Moscow, Novosibirsk) and China).	-
2.	Arrival in Osh. Transfer Osh- Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700 m).	Base Camp Tents
3-17.	Acclimatization, climbing (15 days).
18.	Transfer from Achik-Tash Base Camp toOsh.	Hotel 3*
19.	Departure by morning flight.	-

Note: Duration of trip can be changed by request.

Service included in standard programme "Bishkek-Bishkek": EUR 780 per person

Visa support (if required)
Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Registration in local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek (return way)
Airport transfers in Osh
Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh *)
Airport transfers in Bishkek on outward travel
Accommodation:

- in Osh: Hotel 3* – for 2 nights (excluding breakfast)
- in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
- in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

Full board in the Base Camp (3700 m)
Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200 m)
Delivery of personal client’s outfit from BC to ABC – 20 kg per client (one way only)
Summer Shower in Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200 m)
Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only

Service included in standard programme "Osh-Osh": EUR 550 per person

Visa support (if required)
Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Registration in local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Airport transfers in Osh
Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh
Accommodation:

- in Osh: Guest House - 2 nights excluding breakfast
- in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis + warm mattresses
- in Advanced Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

Full board in the Base Camp (3700m) – for 6 days
Full board in Advanced Base Camp (4200m) – for 4 days
Summer Shower in Base Camp
Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
Mess tent / Yurt in the Base Camp (3700m) & Advanced Base Camp (4200 m)
Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only

Service included in budget programme: EUR 250 per person

Minimum group: 4 persons

Visa support (if required)
Registration in passport department OVIR (if required)
Border permit and delivery the permit to Osh or Base Camp
Registration in local Rescue Service
Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
Airport transfers in Osh
Transfers Osh - Achik-Tash (Base Camp) - Osh
Accommodation:

- in Base Camp: climber’s own tents
- in Advanced Base Camp: climber’s own tents

Outdoor toilet
Storage service
Electricity supply / Solar panels in Base Camp and Advanced Base Camp to charge batteries
Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides

Service available at extra payment (not included in standard programmes)

Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek and Osh.
Domestic flight Bishkek-Osh-Bishkek € 130 / return way Note: Kyrgyz Airlines reserves the right to change air fare without prior notice.
Meals in Osh and Bishkek
Accommodation in Bishkek: Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room € 60-70, standard single room € 45-55 incl. breakfast

Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, 5*, Guest Houses and Apartments are available by request.

Service in Base Camp and in Advanced Base Camp:

Extra meals in Base Camp (3700 m): € 20 per person per day
Extra meals in Advanced Base Camp (4200 m): € 30 per person per day
Dehydrated meals for ascent: by price list ca. €10-20 per person per day
Bar
Camping gas, screw type: € 6 per new canister (230gr), and € 3 per refilled canister (empty canisters have to be returned to the Base Camp)
Mountain Guide: € 1200 per programme (incl. guide’s meals and gear)
Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards: € 1500 per programme

NB: We recommend minimum guide to client ratio 1:3 maximum. For group of 4 clients it is recommended to have the second Guide. Minimum € 700 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will.

Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (safety deposit € 300 is required): € 20 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
in ABC use of sat phone is free of charge, cost of calls and sms only are paid: €3 / minute, €1 / sms
Horse (BC to ABC, 4200m): € 2 per kg (up to 50 kg)
Porterage service

ABC (4200 m) - Camp 2 (5100 m)	€ 7 per kg (up to 15 kg)	Cave an igloo € 20
Camp 2 (5200 m) - Camp 3 (6100 m)	€ 14 per kg (up to 15 kg)	Cave an igloo € 25
Camp 3 (6100 m) - Camp 4 (6400 m)	€ 20 per kg (up to 10 kg)

Extensions:

Trekking and Horseback riding in the area of Lenin Peak
Acclimatization programme for Lenin Peak in Kyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier
Excursions in Osh, Bishkek, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others {/spoiler}

Conditions and notes:

1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 8 weeks before arrival or earlier. In case of late booking and payment (less than 8 weeks) extra charge for formalities € 50 per person is charged.

2. For individuals and groups up to 4 climbers shared transport fromOsh to Base Camp and from Base Camp to Osh will be provided, day of transfer is floating. Departure schedule of transfers to join should be reconfirmed with Kyrgyz Alpine Club in advance. In rare cases for those who book arrival before July 20 or departure after August 15 an extra day in Osh or in Base Camp may be required.

3. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
4. Kyrgyz Airlines operating domestic flights Bishkek-Osh reserves right to change air fare without prior notice.

5. On domestic flights baggage allowance is 15 kg per person, overweight is charged at € 0.5 / kg.
6. If expedition group prefers to send mountaineering gear/outfit to Bishkek or Osh in advance, Club can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Osh. For more details please contact us.

7. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of € 30 000.

8. Kyrgyz Alpine Club notifies that itinerary may be subject to adjustments due to the weather conditions, flight schedules, operational issues or other uncontrolled factors. Slight changes may affect the order of activities or number and location of stops. Your understanding is highly appreciated.

Route description:

Classic Route via Razdelnaya Peak

From Achik-Tash Base Camp (3700 m) walk through the glade of Lukovaya Polyana (“wild onion meadow”). As the plateau ends follow the small steep path that ascends towards Puteshestvennikov Pass (4100 m). Descend again via the moraine to the right where the climb up Lenin Glacier begins (about 5 km from Base Camp). Walk along the Glacier further for 5 km to the altitude of 4200 m where Advanced Base Camp is located on the moraine near the head of glacier. Approximate time from Base Camp to Advanced Base Camp is 6-8 hours of hiking.

From Camp 1 (Advanced Base Camp, 4200 m) cross the flat glacier again and go right up the face to the "Skovorodka" (“frypan”). This area is heavily crevassed and it is highly recommended to use ropes and move together in roped climbing teams of at least 2, but preferably 3 climbers. Relatively steep (45º+) part of snow or ice between camps 1 and 2 are protected by fixed ropes. But be aware that in some parts ice screws are prone to melting out in the midday heat. At the top of the steep section begins the traverse to Camp 2, which is located on a rocky section to the far right of the glacier at about 5300 m. Approximate ascent time from ABC at 4200 m to Camp 2 at 5300 m is 6-8 hours. This section can be exhausting in sunny weather due to the heat.

From Camp 2 at 5300 m ascend steeply above the camp to gain the ridge. Follow the ridge up to an altitude of 6100 m where Camp 3 can be set up on the small col under Mt Razdelnaya at an altitude of about 6100 m. Approximate ascent time from Camp 2 to Camp 3 is 4-6 hours. This part of the ascent is a snow slog with few crevasses where rope and harness are not usually necessary. It is possible to camp along the ridge in case of bad weather or emergency.

From Camp 3 at 6100 m ascend along the western ridge of Peak Lenin. The first part of this ridge can be mixed snow and rock. A rocky plateau is reached at 6400 m (where it is possible to establish Camp 4 if required). Above this plateau is a short steepest snow slope of about 40 degrees where there is often a fixed rope and an ice axe may be necessary, care should be taken on this short section, particularly on the descent. Above this there is a rocky section before reaching the pre summit plateau which at first drops then rises to the true summit plateau at 7134 m. Approximate time from Camp 3 to summit and return is 10-15 hours. The whole route to the summit can be subject to extremely high winds which can also be incredibly cold.

List of equipment:

High altitude tent, 5 season sleeping bag (for up to -30C), carry mat, rucksack (40 l minimum), high altitude mountaineering boots (for up to -30C), hiking boots, snow gaiters, crampons, windproof & waterproof jacket with hood, warm & waterproof over-gloves or mitts, mountaineering or climbing harness, rope, karabiners (2 x screwgate), prussic loops x 2 (5 m / 16 ft of 6 mm cord), ice axe, head-torch, sunglasses, climbing helmet, trekking poles, gas burner.

For more information and booking:

Email to Kyrgyz Alpine Club: alpclub-kg(at)mail.ru

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