KAC - Kyrgyz Alpine Club

Khan-Tengri Peak 6995 m

Mountaineering expedition

Best season: July 15 - August 30

      

 

 

 

 

Prices 2013:

Standard programme Bishkek - Bishkek (21 days): EUR 1350 per person
Standard programme Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr (19 days):  EUR   750 per person
Budget programme Inylchek - Inylchek (16 days): EUR   380 per person

Scheme of standard programme Bishkek - Bishkek: 

Days

Itinerary:

Accommodation

1.

International flight to Bishkek.

-

2.

Arrival in Bishkek. Transfer to Karakol (400 km, 8 hrs).

Hotel / Guest House

3.

Transfer Karakol – Maida-Adyr (180 км, 4 hrs) via Chon-Ashu Pass (3822 m).
Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri, (about 30 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м.

Base Camp Tents

4-19.

Acclimatization, climbing (16 days).

-

20.

Helicopter flight to BC Maida-Adyr (about 30 min). Land transfer to Karakol (180 км, 4 hrs).

Hotel / Guest House

21.

Transfer to Bishkek. Departure.

-

 

Scheme of standard programme Maidaadyr-Maidaadyr and budget programme Inylchek - Inylchek:

Days

Itinerary:

Accommodation

1.

Helicopter flight to the Base Camp South or North Khan-Tengri (about 30 min). Overnight in tents at 4100 м.

-

2-17.

Acclimatization, climbing (16 days).

-

18.

Helicopter flight to BC Maida-Adyr (about 30 min).

-

 

NB: Duration of expedition programme can be changed by request. Price is valid for groups of 4 persons minimum. 

Budget programme Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr does not include accommodation in Base Camp tents.

Service included in standard programme Bishkek - Bishkek: 

  • Visa support (if it’s required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if it’s required)
  • Border permit
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Return land transfer from Bishkek to Karakol
  • Return land transfer from Karakol to Maida-Adyr, by cross country vehicle (4 WD) 
  • Helicopter flight Maida-Adyr - Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Maida-Adyr
  • Accommodation:

           - - in Karakol: Hotel 3* or Guest House– for 2 nights (breakfast is included)
           - - in Base Camp: tents on double sharing basis

  • Full board in the Base Camp and Karakol
  • Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio communication with BC during the ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only. 

Service included in standard programme Maida-Adyr – Maida-Adyr:

  • Visa support (if it’s required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if it’s required)
  • Border permit and delivery the permit toOshor Base Camp
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Helicopter flight Maida-Adyr - Khan-Tengri Base Camp – Maida-Adyr
  • Accommodation in your own tents on the territory of BC
  • Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio communication with BC during the ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only.

Service included in budget programme Inylchek - Inylchek:

  • Visa support (if it’s required)
  • Registration in passport department OVIR (if it’s required)
  • Border permit and delivery the permit toOshor Base Camp
  • Registration in local Rescue Service
  • Certificate of ascent issued by Kyrgyz Alpine Club
  • Accommodation in your own tents on theterritoryofBC
  • Fixed ropes on part of route to Khan-Tengri
  • Summer Shower or Sauna in Base Camp
  • Outdoor toilet
  • Storage service
  • Electricity supply, radio communication with BC during the ascent
  • Ascent / Route consultation of experienced Guides
  • Assistance in changing of departure dates of air tickets. Air company fees for change are paid only

Service available at extra payment (not included in standard and budget programmes):  

  • Transfer / flight from Almaty to Bishkek.
  • Accommodation in Bishkek:

          Hotel 3*, standard twin/double room € 52, standard single room € 45 incl. breakfast. 
          Note: Prices for Hotels 2*, 4*, Guest Houses and Apartments are available by request.

  • All personal equipment (tent, sleeping bag, carry mat, gas cylinders and gas-stove burner, petrol for climbing etc)
  • Helicopter show-flight in area of Inylchek Glacier
  • Guides and porters

Extra service:

  • Return land transfer Bishkek – Karakol – Bishkek (from EUR 480 per transfer)
  • Return land transfer Karakol – Maidaadyr – Karakol (from EUR 200 per transfer)
  • Shared scheduled helicopter flight Maidaadyr – Inylcheck – EUR 180 per person
  • Helicopter flight – EUR 2100 per hour
  • Meals in Base Camp Maidaadyr: € 22 per person per day
  • Meals in Base Camp Inylcheck:  € 25 per person per day
  • Bar
  • Camping gas (propane / butane), screw type: € 6 per canister (230gr)
  • Mountain Guides (incl. guide’s meals and gear):

Mountain Guide: € 1800 per programme
Mountain Guide trained according to programme of UIAGM standards: € 2200 per programme

NB: Minimum € 1300 is charged for any number of working days of Mountain Guide of the guide’s agreement is terminated earlier than 5 days by client’s will. We recommend to have 1 Mountain Guide for 3 clients maximum. For group of 4 clients it is recommended to have the second Guide.

  • Baggage delivery from Maidaadyr to Inylcheck by scheduled helicopter flight € 2 per kg
  • Porterage service

3800m - 4200m             €   1 per kg                  

4200m - 5300m             €   7 per kg                  

5300m - 6100m             € 12 per kg

6100m - 6600m             € 15 per kg      

  • Rent of satellite phone to take for ascent (safety deposit €300 is required): € 20 per day (Thuraya airtime is charged extra)
  • Use of sat phone and internet in Base Camp is free of charge, cost of calls, sms and time only are paid per use.
  • Acclimatization programme for Khan-Tengri Peak i nKyrgyz Range on Ak-Sai Glacier
  • Trekking and Horseback riding in the area ofIssyk-Kul Lake
  • Excursions in Bishkek, Karakol, on Issyk-Kul Lake, Sonkul Lake and others

Conditions and notes:

1. Prices are valid for groups booked and paid 7 weeks before arrival or earlier In case of late booking and payment (less than 7 weeks) extra charge for formalities € 50 per person is charged.

2. Climbers provide personal mountaineering gear for ascent and choose tactics for ascent by themselves.
3. Usually air company providing helicopter for work in area of North Khan-Tengri confirms actual price for helicopter service just before the season (May). In case of significant rise in prices for helicopter flights (10% and more) Kyrgyz Alpine Club reserves the right to change programme price accordingly. In any case the question of price will be solved by mutual consent.

5. Every passenger on helicopter can take up to 30 kg of luggage without extra payment (one rucksack per person). If you plan to have more than 70 kg of overweight, inform us in advance please, so we can check total weight on your flight. The price for overweight is EUR 2 per kg.

6. Helicopter in area of Inylchek glacier is available in the following period: from July 10 till August 30 and sometimes till September 10.
7. If expedition group decides to send mountaineering outfit to Bishkek or Karakol in advance, Kyrgyz Alpine Club can arrange customs clearance and provide delivery to Karakol. For more details please contact us.

8. Climbers must have medical insurance with a minimum coverage of € 30 000.

Route description: Classical Route from South Inylchek Glacier via west edge of the Semenovski Glacier

Cross South Inylchek Glacier (approx 6 km) to Camp 1 at the Shubin bivouac (4300 m). This takes 2-4 hours. It is usual to leave base camp early in the afternoon and sleep in Camp 1 in preparation for a very early start next day.

Due to the prevalence of avalanche activity from the top of Mt Chapaeva (6371 m), and chance increases during a day time, we advise to make a very early start for this next section of the route. Ascent follows through the narrow and steep Semenovski glacier icefall to its upper reaches. Camp 2 can be pitched just below the west col at the altitude of about 5900 m. There is usually a snow cave at this point that may be used (on a "first come, first served" basis).

During period of acclimatisation two nights should be spent at Camp 2 and climbers should ascend to 6200 m - 6500 m before descending to base camp for rest.

From Camp 2 route continues up the western ridge, where fixed ropes afford some protection for short climbs over two or three metres wide couloirs that interrupt the snow slope.

Camp 3 can be pitched at the altitude of 6400 m on the ridge, but space is limited and the location can be somewhat exposed, ridge being prone to violent north winds.

From Camp 3 route goes up a small path on the right before reaching a large 150 m dihedral. This is the most technically difficult section of the ascent, but it is protected by fixed ropes

Summit can be reached from Camps 2 or 3. Descent to the base camp can be made during a long day

Route Description: Classic Route from the North Inylchek Glasier

Route goes between points 1-5 are along Semenovskii Glacier till West saddle of the Khan-Tengri. It is possible to reach West saddle from N Inilchek through Chapaev Peak WE rib and E shoulder.

Walk to the peak from the camp on the morain beneath the Gorky peak and further on along the middle part of South Inylchek glacier to the confluence with Semenovsky glacier. There are less crevasses in the middle part of the glacier than in its edges. It takes 2-4 hours to reach the first camp (altitude - 4300m). The average steepness is 5-10. The crevasses are as a rule open, but the snowfall may cover them, so it is desirable to move on the glacier in ropes. The first camp is on the moraine where the two glaciers, Inylchek and Semenovsky, are met.

The snow covered southern slope of Semenovsky glacier is 15-20˚ steep.  The ascent lasts 4-6 hours.  After the snowfall here is can be an avalanche danger. There may be icefalls from the Chapaev peak in the upper part of the ascent.  The most dangerous time is between 10 and 14 o'clock, when sunshine to do influence to Chapaev Peak SE wall ice fall.

The middle part of Semenovski glacier is covered with many ice crevasses.  The average steepness is 25-40˚. The use of crampons may be necessary depending on the snow crevasses and condition. This part of the Glacier takes 3-5 hours.

The upper part of the glacier is shaped like a narrow long mould 5-10˚ steep.  The ascent to the West saddle takes 2-4 hours.  The camp can be made in any part of the mould.

Climb to the saddle up the snowy slope 30-50˚ steep.  The bergschrund in the lower part of the slope is usually covered with snow. There are convenient places for digging caves into his lower part at the level of the bergschrund.  Further on the climb proceeds from the saddle up the western ridge.

The beginning is a wide snow ridge with little rock 5-10˚ steep. Further up the rocky ridge with small mowy areas.  Steepness is 10-30˚. There are many places for putting up tens at altitudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5-10 m easy.

The rocky ridge 45-55 ˚steep to an altitude of 6400 m there are a lot of places for tents. Rock climbing is easy and timely moderate.

The rocky ridge 45-55˚ steep, a little bit more difficult then before up to an altitude of 6650m.  At the altitude of 6650 the group encounters the major challenge - a technically difficult buttress, 150m high, 60-80˚ steep.  In the middle of the buttress there is a snow-ice couloir 40m long, 60˚ steep. Rock is covered by snow and ice. There are a lot of fix ropes, which are not reliable, because there is no an information about them.

After the buttress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30-40˚ steep, easy climbing.

Descent goes along the ascent route.

List of equipment:

Sleeping bag and sleeping mat, light down jacket, Polartec jacket and pants, windproof jacket and pants, woolen mittens and gloves, cover mittens, woolen hat and socks, UV protecting sun glasses and sun cream, high altitude boots and gaiters, crampons, ice axe, ski or telescopic poles, high altitude tent, rope, harness, prusik, 2-3 ice screws, ascender (jumar), descender, headlamp and reserve batteries, gas burner, thermo insulation flask (thermos) and mug.

For more information and booking:

Email to Kyrgyz Alpine Club: alpclub-kg(at)mail.ru