Mountaineering possibilities Kokshaltoo Range
Western Kokshaltoo Range
Kokshaal-Too Range is one of the most interesting and unexplored area of Tien-Shan mountains. Its western part is one of the most extensive (for about 500 km) and the highest (Pobeda Peak 7439 м) in Tien-Shan Kokshaal-Too Range. It's called "Western Kokshaal-Too".
Brief geographical description. Actually this region is not the most Western part of the Kokshaal-Too Range. It is western part of the Range highest points, where altitudes are 5000m and more. The described region is situated near the Central part of the Range. The Western Kokshaal-Too is located to the South from the Central part of the Issyk-Kul Lake, on the border of the Kyrgyz Republic and China. The region is about 100 km long situated on the latitude from meridian 78° till meridian 79°15'. The axes part of the Range passes latitude in this place only. Meridian directions of the gorge have a deviation from the axes part of the Range. There are about 40 glaciers in the area. The Chon-Turasu glacier is the biggest one. This glacier stretches for about 18 km. As a rule hollows are even and it causes glacier move. There are summits up to 5982 m (Dankov Peak). The difference between the foot hills and the top points reaches 1500 m. The walls are 1000 m high and even more. Glaciers in gorges lie on the altitude of 4000-4500 m. Climate of this region is typical for Central Asia and Tien-Shan. It is severe continental. It is one of the most inclement places of Tien-Shan. It's called "Kyrgyz Arctic" because sometimes the temperature drops lower than -50°С. August is the only summer month. It is the best time for climbing. Thunder storms are typical in May-July. The weather is stable enough in September but it's colder than in August and snow doesn't melt. The average temperature is +4°С in July, +6°С in August, and +2°С in September. The annual amount of precipitation is 420 mm p/a. Lower part of gorges and watersheds are like alpine desert which is situated on ancient peneplain, in some places teem with swampy slopes - "saz". There are no wood and bushes vegetation. This region is habitat for mountain sheep "Marco Polo", wolves, foxes, various rodents, birds, including predatory ones. In the low place of the valley rare nomads with sheeps, camels, yaks and horses stay during summer.
History of exploration. This region wasn't explored for few reasons. Among them are severe climate, poor natural resources, remoteness from main cities, difficult access,proximity to the border with China. For long time the region was closed for researchers and tourists because of the comlex and difficult political relations between Soviet Union and China. First exploration was made by Russian geologist A.B.Kaulbars in 1869. Afterwards some researchers have visited the region several times. First ascent was done in 1934 by the expedition led by A.A.Letatavet on the summit of 4900 m near area of the Chon-Turasu glacier. This summit was called Marona Peak in honour of one of the expedition member. Another mountaineering expedition was organized in 1938 but was not successful because ot the bad weather. Next expedition took place only in 1969. Its members were from Moscow and Kaliningrad, the leader was A.Korsun. Six first ascents were done during that expedition to the area of the Chon-Turasu glacier. Later on expeditions took place in 1972, 1980 and 1985. In that time the main summits of the area were climbed (in Eastern area, incl. Chon-Turasu glacier and Westen, area of Kyzyl-Asker Peak). The others gorges were not explored. A new stage of development of this region was in 1993 when Mikhail Lebedev organised big expedition of Moscow mountaineers. Another expedition was organized by A.Korsun in 1995 to the area of the Chon-Turasu glacier again. Later on and until now expeditions to the Western Kokshaal-Too were organised by mountaineers from the USA and the Great Britain. The first American-English expedition was guided by Lindsay Griffin and Christian Beckwith in 1996. They conducted a prospecting of the area and did a few ascent in the Western part of the region. There were two expeditions in 1997 to this region. One of them was joint American-English expedition guided by Christian to the same region. Another one was expedition of the International School of Mountaineering (ISM) under the guidance of Pat Littlejohn to the area of the Chon-Turasu Glacier. Pat's expedition went few new routes in the area and flew over the region by helicopter to explore the area for the future expeditions. The second expedition of ISM was to the Central part of Kokshaal-Too (to the Kotur glacier) in 1998. This region was not explored earlier at all. Mountaineers could accomplish only three first ascents at the lower parts of the Kotur glaciers because there were too much snow (about 1 m). The 1999 expedition of ISM to the same area was very successful. Six ascents at the uppers reaches of the Kotur glacier were done. Only two virgin summits of the Kotur glacier weren't climbed because the weather changed to bad in last days. Members of the expedition researched gorges to the east from the glacier to find better approach ways to these places for future expeditions.
Potential for climbing, routes description. From the orography scheme of the region it's obvious that only regions of Chon-Turasu glacier and Kotur glacier have a comparative good development. Gorges Karagerme, Kyzylunet and Kichi-Turasu have less development. Most of the rest gorges of the region don't have development. No exploration of the region was done and there are no orography schemes with summits, passes, roads and approaches. These are "white spots" for explorers and mountaineers. There are just some regions with good development and great potential for new ascents and roads. There is expecting about 30 virgin summits up to 5000 m and about 100 up to 5000 m. Mainly routes are combined, snow-icy. The altitude gain between the starting of routes and the summits is 1500 m. Rocks in watershed are strong granites on lateral sandstone and limestone. There are possibilities not only for classic mountaineering but also for ski-mountaineering and ski tours in the region. To get to this region you can via Western part of the area, which is West of Sarychat gorge, by mountain roads (180 km) starting from Naryn town through Ak-Muz village and Kyndy pass to the Upper Mudrum river. The good part of the road is from Naryn to the Kyndy pass and further on it turns into a dirt road. From the Upper Mudrum river it's about 10-20 km to the base camp side.
How to get to the region. Because of the roads condition it's possible to drive only 4WD (6WD) car which can take you through rivers and slopes of hills. Some parts of the route go through hill swamps - "saz". It is also possible to reach eastern part of the region by a high-cross-road capability car from the south cost of the Issyk-Kul lake over Barskaun, Suek and Ashuu passes and Kichi-Uzengegush gorge along the Uzengegush river (180 km). The road along the river goes by the northern side of the river and approach to the gorges is river from southern side. There are no bridges, ropes are needed. It will be better to go to these places with people experienced in the area. ITMC "Tien-Shan" is the only company with experience in the region as it arranged five expeditions there iin the past.