Mountaineering possibilities
Mountaineering possibilities of Kyrgyzstan
Tien-Shan Mountains
Tien-Shan is one of the largest mountain systems over Asia. It extends about 2000 km in the latitudinal direction and is 400 km in width. About 2/3 mountains of the Tien-Shan is located in Kyrgyzstan. The ranges of Tien-Shan are made of sedimentary, metamorphic, and igneous rocks. The Tien-Shan consists of Northern, Western, Central, Inner, and Eastern Tien-Shan according to its orographic structure. The most of the ranges have typical mountain-glacier "alpine" relief. The ancient highly elevated flat surfaces like those in the Tibet, are for example on the southern slope of the Terskey Ala-Too or in the Inner Tien-Shan, where they are on the altitude of 4-5 thousand meters.
The climate of Tien-Shan is sharply continental, i.e. hot summer on foothills and in valleys and cold in the Alpine zone. Severe for these latitude winter, rather strong temperature fluctuations within a day and a year, cloudless and considerable dryness are characteristic features of this area. Plenty of solar light. Average annual duration of solar radiance amounts to from 2500 to 2700 hours. The highest possible cloudiness is in March and April while the least one is in August and September. The altitude temperature gradient, i.e. the temperature fall in each 100 m of elevation, makes up 0.7° C in summer and 0.6° C in autumn and spring, and 0.5° C in winter. Rainfall varies greatly from 200-300 mm to 1600 mm per year. Maximum rainfall is during the first part of summer. Peculiar microclimate of the Tien-Shan is formed on the ridges which surround Issyk-Kul Lake. Total area of glaciers in Tien-Shan makes up 7300 sq km.
The relief, climatic peculiarities, snow lines, flora and fauna of the individual regions in Kyrgyzstan vary greatly.
Pamir Mountains
Kyrgyz Republic covers only the most northern part of Pamir - the northern slopes of the Zaalaiskiy Ridge and northern part of Pamir-Alai. This are the mountains which separate Tien-Shan and Pamir, and which include Turkestan and Alai Range. The climate of Pamir is sharply continental, which is like in Tien-Shan but differs from the latter by a comparatively stable weather, less humidity and larger quantity of solar days. The densest cloudiness is in March and April like in Tien-Shan, and less cloudy sky is in August and September.
The peculiarities of the climate will be given in more detail in describing the individual areas.
There are 8 areas that are of great interest for alpinists. Five of them are in Tien-Shan and the rest three ones are in Pamirs.
1. Central Tien-Shan
Central Tien-Shan includes two areas: Northern and Southern Inylchek Glaciers and Kaindy Glacier.
Area of Northern and Southern Inylchek Glaciers. This area is located in the most remote eastern part of Kyrgyzstan, at the borders of China and Kazakhstan including the eastern parts of such ranges as Kokshaal-Too, Inylchek-Too, Sarydjaz as well as Tengri-Tag and Meridionalniy Ranges. In this area there is one of the largest glaciers in the world - Southern Inylchek Glacier, its length stretches for 62 km, width is 3.5 km, and the depth of ice reaches 200 m. There are two summits higher than 7000 m - peaks of Pobeda and Khan-Tengri. These summits are the most popular among alpinists. Since the first ascents alpinists made ascents along 21 different ascent routes to Khan-Tengri and 8 ascent routes to Pobeda Peak. In this region 23 summits are higher than 6000 m and about 80 summits of 5000-6000 m in height. Among them 3 summits higher than 6000 m and 14 summits 5000-6000 m in height are virgin mounts. About 70 routes there have been explored.
Northern Inylchek Glacier is located in Kazakhstan. Therefore we describe in more details the Southern Inylchek Glacier that is the most severe one in Tien-Shan. It is usual thing in summer when the sun shines in the morning and hides to the noon when the sky starts to cover with clouds, and it is snowing in the afternoon. Sometimes the weather worsens for several days and it is snowing for two or three days ceaseless. The most stable weather begins usually after August 5 and lasts till the middle of September, but in September it becomes much colder than in August. Average temperature is 5° C in July, 7° C in August and 3° C in September. Routes there are combined, snow, and snow-ice. The slopes and summits of the mountains are usually covered with snow and ice. In addition to the technical difficulties which are available on routes, alpinists might be caught by such danger as weather, which can worsen unexpectedly and last several days. This creates extra danger of avalanche. Also alpinists have to be careful of cracks in the glaciers that are very insidious in this region. Usually one or two days are needed to have the snow be consolidated.
ITMC has stationary base camp on the lateral moraine of Southern Inylchek Glacier. There are five wooden huts to handle up to 42 persons, with a tent camp next door, a helicopter landing place, a blockhouse sauna, a kitchen and dining rooms, and 220 voltage power station. The camp is situated under the slopes of peak Gorky, on the altitude of 3995 m. During July and August the permanent radio communication is available in these camps with intermediary Maidadyr base camp and Bishkek and Karakol cities. This area can be reached only by helicopter that flies from Maidadyr landing ground which is located in the eastern direction along Inylchek valley and close to a frontier-post. It takes 30 minutes by helicopter and 4-5 days going on foot to get to the Base Camp from Maidadyr. Horses failed to pass to the base camp. Porters can be hired from travel company, but you can order luggage delivery by helicopter which would be more convenient and often cheaper. The helicopter usually operates in this area from mid July to early September. Maidadyr camp may be reached by car or cross country vehicle along the 180 km mountain road through Chon-Ashu pass (3822m) from Karakol town.
Area of Kaindy Glacier. The area of Kaindy Glacier is situated in the vicinity of Southern Inylchek Glacier south-west from the latter. It includes the glaciers of Kaindy and Terekty. Weather conditions are similar to those of Southern Inylchek Glacier. This area is explored by alpinists not as frequently as the latter, and is characterized by summits up to 6073 m highest. There are plenty of virgin summits. Routes are combined, ice-snow and snow; rainfall is 1000-1500m. The first mountaineering expedition in this region was conducted in 1995. Members of the expedition made their first ascents to seven summits of the area. Kaindy Glacier can be reached by helicopter and by cross country vehicle and with the help of porters. You can reach Inylchek village by car along 150 km asphalted road from Karakol, then about 30 km along a bad mountain road that may be passed over only by a high-cross-country-capability vehicle. It takes two days of going on foot up to the upper reaches of Inylchek Glacier starting from the terminal of the road.
2. Terskey Ala-Too Range
Terskey Ala-Too is a range which stretches 300 km in the latitudinal direction along the southern side of Issyk-Kul lake starting from its western extremity as far as the borders with China. Its northern slopes of central parts including such gorges as Dzhuuku, Kichi-Kyzylsuu, Chon-Kyzylsuu, Dzhety-Oguz, Karakol, and Ak-Suu are of interest for mountaineers. Among them the most popular are Dzhety-Oguz and Karakol in which the highest summits of Terskey Ala-Too - Dzhigit Peak (5170 m), Karakolskiy Peak (5281 m), and Oguz-Bashi Peak (5158 m) and the highest walls are located. About 200 routes have been explored there, from very simple to very difficult ones. The routes are rather rock or combined than ice and snow or snow. The difference of altitude are up to 1500 m. The climate is considerably milder here than that in Central Tien-Shan due to the lower absolute altitudes and the neighbourhood of Lake Issyk-Kul. Plenty of precipitation, it amounts to 1600 mm a year. The largest portion of precipitation falls to the beginning of summer. July and August are characterized by frequent snowfalls and thunderstorms. The most stable weather is in September, but in mountains it becomes much colder than it is in valley. One can reach this area by car from Karakol. The road extends 80 km through Dhzety-Oguz Gorge from Karakol, further one-day going on foot as far as the regions for ascents. Horses and porters are available. Horses may be found on place whereas porters should be taken from Karakol. The distance between Karakol town and the end of the road in Karakol Gorge is 12 km. The subsequent road is washed away and going on foot is the only way of moving. Horses and porters are available. It takes about one or two days of going on foot from the terminal of road and the regions for ascents. Other gorges of Terskey Ala-Too are visited more rarely than Karakol and Dzhety-Oguz, they provide mountaineers with ample opportunities for making first ascents.
3. Kyrgyz Range (of Ala-Archa and Alamedin Gorges)
This area is situated in 40 km distance southwards from Bishkek, the capital of Kyrgyzstan. Summits lift up to the altitude of 4895 m (the highest point of the range is Semenov-Tien-Shanskiy Peak). Routes are rock, combined, seldom ice and snow-ice. The rocks consist of tough granite and granodiorite The difference of altitude is till 1100 m. The amount of precipitation attains 690 mm a year. The least amount of precipitation falls in August and September while the largest one in May and June. Average temperature is -12° C in winter, -7° C in autumn, and +3° C spring.
In Kyrgyz Range the most popular area is Ak-Sai Glacier which is situated in Ala-Archa National Nature Park. About 150 routes from the simplest to the most complicated walls lifting up to 1100 m have been explored there. There are four mountain huts, three of which are small (roughly 4X4 m) and one stone made hut is more comfortable and can accommodate up to 20 persons at a time. It takes about three hours by foot from the terminal of road in Ala-Archa Park to, so called, Ak-Sai stop. It takes 45 minutes of riding by car from Bishkek to Ala-Arch Nature Park (terminal of road).
Other gorges of Ala-Archa - Adygene, Topkaragai, Tuyuk, and Golubina - are visited much seldom and have no such unique opportunities for ascents. The difference of altitude attains 600 m and most of the routes are simple and of average class of difficulty, but give much more opportunities for passing new routes.
Alamedin. Area of Salyk Glacier is one of the most popular. Similar to Ala-Archa Alamedin offer perfect opportunities for ascents and has walls lifting 1000 m. About 30 routes including the simplest and most difficult ones have been passed here. In addition, there are opportunities for making new routes there. The other glaciers of Alamedin such as Altyn-Tor and Tuyuk-Tor are less popular. The difference of altitude attains 500 m, the routes are easy or of average class of difficulty, there are excellent opportunities for passing new routes. The approaches to the place of ascent from the terminal of road in Alamedin are more distant than that of in Ala-Archa. The way to Salyk takes 5 hours whereas to Altyn-Tor and Tuyuk-Tor 6 hours.
4. Western Kokshaal-Too Range
Western Kokshaal-Too Range is located in the south from Lake Issyk-Kul, on the border with China. There are summits of up to 5982 m (Dankov Peak), 17 summits rises above 5000 m and about 60 summits are of 4000 - 5000 m high. The most of them, including 11 which are higher than 5000 m, are virgin summits. The difference between the foothills and the highest points reaches 1800 m and the walls are as high as 1200 m. The routes are rock, combined or snow-ice. The rocks are composed with red or grey granite and offers the perfect opportunities for climbing. The climate is very severe, and even in summer the temperature rises above zero very rare The most stable weather is in July and September. The average temperature is +4° C in July, +6° C in August, and +2° C in September. The annual amount of precipitation is 420 mm a year. The area is rather distant and rarely visited. The approaches are short, 1-3 hour way on foot from car road to the routes. It is possible to reach east part of this place by a high-cross-road capability car along the 180-km road going from the southern cost of Lake Issyk-Kul over Barskoon and West part of the area by some mountain road, along 180 km road, going from Naryn town through Akmuz village.
5. Akshiirak and Kuilyu Ranges
Akshiirak and Kuilu Ranges are located southwards from the eastern extremity of Lake Issyk-Kul, half way from the lakeside to the Kyrgyz-Chinese border. Two rather independent areas in the vicinity to each other can be marked out. They are Akshiirak Range and Kuilu Range (to the east of Akshiirak). The climate is similar to that of Central Tien-Shan but a bit milder. Annual rainfall is 694 mm, the largest part of it falls in summer and the least one in winter. Annual temperature is -16° C in winter, -7° C in spring and autumn, +2° C in June, +4° C in July and August, and +1° C in September.
Akshiirak Range. The summits reaches 5126 m. There are abundance of ice patches and the glacier flows frequently from the passes and summits. The difference of altitude is up to 700 m and in its eastern part in the vicinity of the 5126-m Peak it lifts up to 1000 m. Plenty of ice patches and excellent conditions are for ski mountaineering the year round. Only in the second part of August and September the glaciers become free from snow. The routes are combined with large ice-snow sections and ice-snow or snow patches. There are no high vertical walls there. Various options of routes: simple, mean and, only in the northern and southern slopes of 5126-m Peak, complicated. There have been no alpinist expeditions here yet, the perfect chance for mountaineers to pioneer and explore new routes. It is possible to reach this place by a high-cross-road-capability car starting from the southern cost of the Issyk-Kul over Barskoon along 100-150-km mountain road. The approaches to the place of climbing takes 1-2 days.
Kuilu Range. The ridge is situated to East from Akshiirak Ridge. Altitudes are here till 5281 m. Relief is more high them in Akshiirak Ridge. Routes here are combined or rocks. Only a few expedition have been here. It was climbed highest peak – Constitution Peak and some peaks around. Plenty peaks till 5200 m from very simple routes to very difficult are virgin. Access in this area possible by car from East along Kuilu Gorge, along Uchkul Gorge or along Taldysuu River and from West through Sarychat Valley. For this area don’t need special permits.
6. Perspective areas in Tien-Shan
For those who are interested in expeditions to virgin mountains the following areas would be most appropriate: Borkoldoi Range, Atbashinskiy Range, Djetymtoo Range and Djangart area of central part of Kokshaal-Too Range.
7. Zaalaiskiy Range
The most popular place here is Achik-Tash gorge. It is one of the most famous alpinist regions all over the world. The easiest summit higher than 7000 m - Lenin Peak (7134 m) is located here. The area is located on the northern slopes of the Zaalaiskiy Range on the Kyrgyz-Tadjik border. Plenty of ice patches, slopes and summits are covered with ice and snow. The difference of altitude is up to 3000 m. Routes are not difficult technically, it is mainly snow and snow-ice. This region offers the magnificent opportunities to climb up such altitude even with basic technical training. The climate is much milder than that in the Tien-Shan. Average temperature is 10° C in July-August. The largest portion of precipitation falls in the period from April till the beginning of June and the smallest in August and September. You can reach the base camp by car along the 220-km mountain road over the 3165-m Taldyk Pass starting from Osh town. In addition to Achik-Tash mountaineers can climb Lenin Peak starting from the neighbouring Kamansu gorge over the Razdelnaya Summit. Whereas in summer Achik-Tash teems with expeditions from all over the world, the latter route is rarely explored though the ascent time is the same, the way is less dangerous, and it is possible to arrive to the base camp by car.
8. Turkestanskiy Range
The Turkestanskiy Range is located in South West of Kyrgyzstan, and sets off the Fergana Valley from the South-West. It faces Kyrgyzstan with its northern slopes. All of the northern slopes of the central and eastern parts of the range stretching 80 km are of great interest for mountaineers. As a whole it is a region little explored by alpinists excluding the world-known Liailiak and Karavshin Gorges. The climate is much milder than that in the Tien-Shan. The annual amount of precipitation ranges from 250 to 400 mm increasing from East to West. The driest months are August and September. The average temperature of January is -5° C and that of August +14° C. The summits rises as high as 5621 m; Skalistiy Peak is the highest point of the Range.
Liailiak and Karavshin Gorges are the paradise for mountaineers. The rocks resemble by their structure Patagonia but differ from the latter by their more extension and warmer climate. The walls are of 2000 m high, e.g., the northern wall of Ak-Suu Peak. The rocks are firm and massive granites, limestone and sandstone. The reserve for technical ascents along already passed routes, as well as the opportunities for the first ascents and new ways to the conquered summits. It is possible to arrive this region by helicopter directly from Tashkent City. The ride by car from Tashkent as far as Karavshin settlement, proceeding on foot or on horses within 1 day is also possible.
Less-known Uryam, Sabakh, and Kyrk-Bulak Canyons stretches westwards of Liailiak Gorge. The rocks in these canyons are similar to those in Ak-Suu and Karavshin in addition there are plenty of unclimbed summits and resources for making new ways. Eastwards farther from these gorges, in the upper reaches of the Karasang River on its southern board stretches 10 km and the walls as high as 1000 m in height composed of lame- or sandstones. Only unclimbed summits.
A number of sub parallel canyons such as Dzhupai, Tamyngen, Min-Teke, Djiptic, and Kshemysh are extended eastwards from the Karavshin Gorge in the meridional direction. The alpinists visit this region very rarely and there is a vast potentiality for first climbing and first passing. Ride from the Fergana Valley is possible to all of these gorges. The approaches take 1-2 days on horses that can be hired on place.
9. Alaiskiy Range
The Alaiskiy Range is located in the South of Kyrgyzstan, separates the Fergana Valley from Alaiskiy Valley. On West the range joins the Turkestanskiy Range and is as if its extension to the East for 400 km to the Chinese border. The climate is similar to that of in the region of Turkestanskiy Range. The western and central parts solely are of interest for mountaineers. These parts of the range are several meters higher than its eastern part. Its highest point Gandykul Peak of 5444 m. Three regions solely are explored by alpinists on the whole length of the Alaiskiy Range. It is the area of the Gadjir, Mashalyan, Dugoba, Koksu, and Archakanysh Gorges on the northern slopes of the eastern part of the Range southwards from Fergana Town, which is located on the southern slopes of the eastern part of the Range; and, the region of Kichik ranging from the simplest to super complicated have been used here. The abundance of rock walls are rising as high as 1500 m. The rocks are composed of solid limestone, sandstone and granite. In the region of Kichik-Alai about 80 routes of simple and mean class of difficulty have been explored. The region is popular with mountaineers from Osh Town thanks to the simplicity of approaches. The region of the Guamysh Gorge is explored insignificantly in the eastern part of the gorge where about 40 routs have been used including 10 ones of super difficulty. A vast reserves for first ascents and new routes except the above-mentioned regions of the Alaiskiy Range, which makes up its smaller area. Arrival along motor roads is possible from the Fergana and Alai Valleys to all the regions of the gorge. Way to the routes takes 1-2 days. Horses that can be rented on place can carry the luggage.