Pobeda Peak, 7439 m (along the Western edge over Dikij pass and Pobeda Peak West)

          1: From the base camp beneaht the Gorkij peak the group crosses the South Engilchek glacier towards the Zvezdochka glacier. Walk along Zvezdochka Eastern lateral moraine till the bend of the glacier. Before the icefall (a small bend of the glacier) the group reaches the middle part of the glacier and takes the right turn towards Dikij pass. The first camp is beneaht the Dikij pass. While pitching the camp be on alert: there is an avalanche danger from the Dikij pass and ice falls from the Nothern wall of Pobeda peak. A walk from the base camp beneath Gorkij peak to the camp on the Zvezdochka glacier beneath the Dikij pass is 5-10 hours.

          1-2: Ascent to the Dikij pass. A walk up the slope to the icefall is 1 hour, along the icefall 2-4 hours, ascent to the mould of the hanging glacier beneath the Dikij pass. A walk along the glacier (5-10 degrees) to the Dikij pass is 1 hour. Ascent up the snow-ice slope (30-40 degrees) to the pass is 1 hour. It is possible to make a snow hole and pitch tents. The most difficult and dangerous part of this route is an icefall and ice walls 20 m high.

          3-4: 5700-6700 - ascent along the ridge of rocks mixed with snow-ice places. The rocks are of 3-4 class of difficulty, snow-ice places are of 2-3 difficulty grade. The steepness of the ridge is 30-40 degrees. There are good places for pitching tents after first rock zone at an altitude 6000-6100 m, 6200 m, 6400 m, before black triangle at an altitude 6600 and higher 6700 m. Ascent to this part of the route may take from 8 to 16 hours, depending on weather and other circumstances.

          4-5: From the black rock triangle the group ascends to the peak Western Pobeda in 4-8 hours, the steepness is 15-20 degrees, grade of difficulty is "2-3". The way lies over snow-ice fields with rare rocks. It is better to pitch a camp in the mould of one of them South-Western summits of the Western Pobeda. There is enough place in the mounld to pitch a tent or make a hole.

          5-6: From Western Pobeda to the pre-top rocky ridge (the root of which is called "Obelisk") there are 3 km of wide ice and snow ridge (4-6 hours). Cornices and ice crevasses are possible. Beneath "Obelisk" in the big mould you can take a shelter from a very strong west wind, pitch a tent or make a hole.

          6-7: After a walk from "Obelisk" along the rock ridge (200-300 m; grade of difficulty "3"), then along the ridge of mixed rocks and snow-ice places with the steepness of 20-40 degrees the group gets to the summit. The summit resembles a dome of 200-250 m, where it is difficult to determine the highest point. That is why those groups, which ascend from the western side leave a note in the western part of the dome, those ones, which ascend from the North or East - leave it in the Eastern part. It is 4-8 hours walk from "Obelisk" to the summit . Descent is the same as the ascent route. Camps for the nights depend on weather and other circumstances.

 

Khan-Tengry Peak 7010 m, (on western ridge from Semenovsky Glacier)

          0-1 Walk to the peak from the camp on the morain beneath the Gorky peak and further on along the middle part of South Inylchek glacier to the confluence with Semenovsky glacier. There are less crevasses in the middle part of the glacier than in its edges. It takes 2-4 hours to reach the first camp (altitude - 4300m). The average steepness is 5-10 degrees. The crevasses are as a rule open, but the snowfall may cover them, so it is desirable to move on the glacier with ropes. The first camp is on the moraine where the two glaciers, Inylchek and Semenovsky, meet.

          1-2 The snow covered southern slope of Semenovsky glacier is 15-20 degrees steep. The ascent lasts 4-6 hours. After the snow fall there is an avalanche danger. There may be icefalls from the Chapaev peak in the upper part of the ascent. The most dangerous time is between 10 am and 2 pm. It is deserable to leave the first camp at 3-4 AM in order to finish this section before 10 AM. Difficulty grade according to the UIAA classification is "1".

          2-3 The icy part of Semenovski glacier is covered with many ice crevasses. The average steepness is 25-40 degrees. There is a danger of icefalls. Crampons may be necessary depending on the snow condition. The difficulty grade is "2" (UIAA classification). The ascent takes 3-5 hours.

          3-4 The upper part of the glacier is shaped like a narrow long mould of 5-10 degrees steep. The ascent takes 2-4 hours. The camp can be set in any part of the mould. The difficulty is "1" (UIAA classification).

          4-5 Climb to the "saddle" up the snowy slope 30-50 steep. The bergschrund in the lower part of the slope is usually covered with snow. There are convenient places for digging caves in the lower part at the level of the bergschrund. The difficulty grade is "2" (UIAA classifi- cation). Further on the climb proceeds from the saddle up the western ridge.

          5-6 The beginning is a wide snow ridge with little rock 5-10 degrees steep. The difficulty grade is "2" (UIAA classification). Further up the rocky ridge with small mowy areas. Steepness is 10-30 degrees . The difficulty grade is 2-3 . There are many places for putting up tens at altitudes up to 6200 m. The rocks are 5-10 m. The difficulty grade is 3-4.

          6-7 The rocky ridge 45-55 degrees steep. The difficulty grade is 3-4 ( UIAA classification ) at an altitude of 6400 m there is place for 4 tents.

          7-8 The rocky ridge 45-55 degrees steep, difficulty grade is 3-4, up to an altitude of 6650 m. At the altitude of 6650 the group encounters the major challenge - a technically difficult buttress, 150 m high, 60- 80 degrees steep. The difficulty grade is 4-5 ( UIAA classification ). In the middle of the buttress there is a snow-ice couloir 40 m long, 60 steep, with difficulty grade "4".

          8-9 After the buttress the way to the top is up the rock and snow ridge, 30-40 steep, with difficulty grade "3".
The descent takes the ascent route. The group needs crampons, 5-10 rock pitons, 2-3 ice screws.

 

Uchitel Peak (Teacher), 4527m, 1B

          "Uchitel'" peak is one of the easiest and popular peaks on Ak-sai glacier. Great panoramic view from this peak attracts a lot of people. This peak consists of 3 routes of different difficulty level, 2 of them begin from the climber's stops called "razheka stops" and the other one from climber's camp "ala-archa".

Peak: Uchitel', Altitude: 4527m, Grade: 1B, Character of route: Scree slope

          The 1st route: from "Razheka stops" by well marked trail along western range of Uchitel' peak. Climbing this route does not require special mountain gear and strong climbing skills. There is just one thing to pay attention to: small drifts in upper areas. Climbing time depends on weather condition and your own stamina.

Individual gear: Telescopic poles, boots (in summer light trekking boots).
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof gloves, hat, polartec jacket, socks.
Rescue items: Bivakzack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets. 
Food Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water.
Time Ascent: min-3h, max-6h. Descent: min-2h, max-4h.

 The 2nd route. Grade of difficulty: 2B .Character of route: Traverse (from Ak-sai pass).

          The route towards Uchitel' peak begins from the climber's stops called "Razhek" and goes by narrow strip before Baichechekei peak on Ak-sai pass, then by eastern saw to the top of Uchitel' peak. Climbing time depends on weather conditions and your own stamina but usually it takes from 6h to 8 hours. Actually there is no obstacles during that route but climbing this peak requires some mountaineering experience and climbing skills. If you see installed rock screws or loops avoid to use them. That peak is good for training summer climbing as it combines walking and climbing but it is pretty hard and dangerous in winter because of snow edges. Be sure you have the right equipment:

Individual gear: Climbing harness, Iceaxe, helmet, crampons, self-protection loop, A rope(40m-50m), some stoppers and corabines.
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof, Boots, gloves and mittens, hat, polartec jacket, socks.
Rescue items: Bivaksack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets.
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water.
Time: Ascent: min-6h, max-10h. Descent: min-1h, max-3h.

 

Kosmonavtov Peak, 4200m, 3B

          Kosmonavtov peak has very sharp sammit and looks like a rocket hastily in the blue sky. This peak situated in remote area of Ak-Sai glacier, behind "Corona" peak. Unfortunately, long way and climbing time made this amazing peak not so popular as the others. It consists of 3 routes

Peak: Kosmonavtov Altitude: 4200m Grade: 3B Character of route: Narrow icy strip (40-45 degree) 

          Route: From "Hotel Corona" stop up to "south corona" pass by icy strip, then by main, made of rock range towards the top. Leav stop rope up with other participants, This part of the glacier known for its difficult system of crevasses. The routes require strong climbing skills and mountaineering experience

Individual Gear:  Full ice climbing equipment (crampones, iceaxes, icescrews), sit harness, helmet, ropes and loops, rock climbing equipment (stoppers and friends, ropebrake, self-protection loop, clumps). Glasses, first-aid kit, radiostations, flashlight are necessary. 
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof clothes, plastic boots, gloves, mittens, hat, polartec jacket, socks 
Rescue items: Bivaksack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets. 
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water. 
Time: Ascent: min-4h, max-6h. Descent: min-2h, max-5h

 

Izyskatel Peak, 4640m, 3B

          Izyskatel' peak is situated on the right range of "Corona" peak, on the 1st pillow of "Corona" cirque. This peak consists of 3 routes of different difficulty grades. 2 of them go by western and eastern ranges and the remaining one through the center of the Ice wall (45-55 degees). Climbing that peak by any route requires strong climbing skills as well as good shape of mountaneers.

Climbing time depends on weather conditions and your own stamina, but usually it takes from 4 to 8 hours.

          There is a huge bergschrund below the wall and great amount of deep crevasses on the surface of the 2nd pillow. Descent is straight on ascent way or by the eastern range.

          In summer "Izyskatel'" covered with hard firn, in winter with ice. So climbing that peak you should have Climbing harness, iceaxe, helmet, crampons, self-protection loop, 2 ropes (40m-50m), some corabines

         NEVER CLIMB IN STORMLIKE WEATHER CONDITION (RAIN, SNOW, STRONG WIND, FOG), WITHOUT EXPERIENCED MOUNTAIN INSTRUCTOR!

Peak: "Izyskatel'";  Altitude: 4400m; Grade: 3B; Character of route: Mixed Ice and rocks Dominant: Rocks 

          The 1st route: Begins from "Hotel Corona" stops, goes by the 1st pillow then cross snowfield towards the right range up to bergschrund and through "Zpadnyi Izyskatel" (West-izyskatel) pass, by western rocky range on the top. Descent goes by the eastern range (2B route). This route requires some rock equipment.

          The 2nd route: Begins from "Hotel Corona" stop, goes by the 1st pillow then crosses snowfield towards to the centre of the wall up to the bergschrund then by the wall to the top. There are 2 ways of descent: the 1st one is straight on the way of ascent, the other one is by the eastern range. 

Grade of difficulty: 3B 
Character of route: Ice wall (45-55 degrees).

The 3rd route: Begins from "Hotel Corona" stop, goes by the 1st pillow then crosses snowfield towards to the left range up to the big bergschrund and through "Vostochnyi Izyskatel" (East-isyskatel) pass, by eastern snow edge on the top. 

Grade of difficulty: 2B 
Character of route: Ice/snow range

Individual Gear: Full ice climbing equipment (crampones, iceaxes, icescrews), sit harness, helmet, ropes and loops, rock climbing equipment (stoppers and friends, ropebrake, self-protection loop, clumps). Glasses, first-aid kit, radiostations, flashlight are necessary.
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof, plastic boots, gloves, mittens, hat, polartec jacket, socks.
Rescue items: Bivaksack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets.
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water.
Time: Ascent: min-5h, max-8h. Descent: min-3h, max-5h

 

Box Peak, 4240m, 1B

          Box peak is situated on Ak-Sai glacier, across Uchitel' peak. Its one of the most universal peak as consists 7 quite routes (rocky, icy and traverse). The easiest ones doesn't require strong mountain experience and climbing skills. This peak available any season.

          Never let yourself climbing in stormlike weather condition (rain, snow, strong wind, fog), without wellclassified mountain instructor.!

Peak: Box; Altitude: 4240m; Grade: 1B; Character of route: Scree slope

          The 1st route: (the easiest) from Racheka stops goes up to the Ak-sai glacier by well marked trail then cross it towards south-west and then by gully on the top.

The 2nd route: From "Teke-tor" pass by south range.

          Grade of difficulty: 2B Make sure climbing this peak in winter you have a rope and harness. Climbing tme will not take much time in both cases, however it depends from weather condition and your own stamina but generally it takes 6 hours from camp to camp.

Individual gear: Telescopic poles, boots (in summer it could be light trekking boots).
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof, gloves, hat, polartec jacket, socks.
Rescue items: Bivakzack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets. 
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water. 
Time: Ascent: min-3h, max-6h. Descent: min-2h, max-4h.

 

Baichechekei Peak, 4515m, 1B

          Baichechekei peak is situated on Ak-Sai glacier. This peak is one of the most universal: It includes 6 quite distinct routes (incl.3 rocky route, 1 route by narrow ice strip, 1 traverse, 1 by scree slope) all of them begin from Razhek climber's stops.

Peak: Baichechekei; Altitude: 4515m; Grade: 1B Character of route: Scree slope

1st route: from "Razheka stop" by well marked trail up to Baichechekei pass then by eastern range on the top. Climbing this route does not require any of mountain gear and strong climbing skills. Climbing time depends on weather condition and your own stamina. 

Individual gear: Telescopic poles, boots (in summer light trekking boots), 
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof, gloves, hat, polartec jacket, socks.
Rescue items: Bivakzack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water.
Time: Ascent: min-4h, max-7h. Descent: min-2h, max-4h.

The 2nd route Grade of difficulty: 2B Character of route: Traverse

Route: From "Razhek" stop to Uchitel' peak then traversing by western saw towards to Baichechekei peak. Climbing time depends on weather conditions and your own stamina but usually it takes from 6 to 8 hours, Actually there is no obstacles during that route but climbing this peak requires some mountaineering experience and climbing skills. Try not to use installed rock screws or loops. That peak is good for training in summer climbing as it combines walking and climbing but it's pretty hard and dangerous in winter because of snow edges. Be sure you have the following equipment

Individual gear: Climbing harness, Iceaxe, helmet, crampons, self-protection loop, A rope(40m-50m), some stoppers and corabines.
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof, Boots, gloves and mittens, hat, polartec jacket, socks.
Rescue items: Bivaksack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets.
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water.
Time: Ascent: min-6h, max-10h. Descent: min-1h, max-3h.

 

First Tower of Corona Peak, 4810m, 3A

          The peak of Corona is the most amazing mount on Ak-Sai glacier, which is situated in Ala-Archa gorge. It reminds the crown of Queen that's why it's called 'Corona'. There are 14 routes of different difficulty grades on the Corona peak.

          The route towards the 1st tower begins from the climber's stop called "Hotel Corona" and goes by the 1st,  2nd and the 3rd pillow with rocks and cliffs in upper part of the mount. Climbing time usually depends on weather conditions and your own stamina but generally it takes from 6 to 12 hours. Actually there is no obstacles besides crevasses, ice covered rock wall and strong wind. It's pretty hard to overclimb from ice to rock on its border at the end of couloir. There could be a bergschrund before the 3rd pillow. Climbing that peak definitely requires some mountain experience and mountaineering skills. There are a lot of installed rocks screws and loops, try not to use them. Discent is straight on the way of ascent.

          In summer "Corona" is covered with snow and firn, in winter it's covered with ice. You should have Climbing harness, iceaxe, helmet, crampons, self-protection loop, a rope (40m - 50m), some corabines

          NEVER CLIMB IN STORMLIKE WEATHER CONDITION (RAIN, SNOW, STRONG WIND, FOG), WITHOUT EXPERIENCED MOUNTAIN INSTRUCTOR!

Peak: Corona (1st tower); Altitude: 4810m; Grade: 3A; Character of route: mixed ice and Rocks (mostly ice)

1st route: From the saddle between the 1st and the 2nd towers. 2nd route: through cliff rapture by icy narrow strip.

Individual Gear: Full ice climbing equipment (crampones, iceaxes, icescrews), sit harness, helmet, ropes and loops, rock climbing equipment (stoppers and friends, ropebrake, self-protection loop, clumps).Glasses, first-aid kit, radiostations, flashlight are necessary
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof, plastic boots, gloves, mittens, hat, polartec jacket, socks. 
Rescue items: Bivaksack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets.
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water.
Time: Ascent: min-4h, max-6h. Descent: min-2h, max-5h

Peak: Corona (2nd tower); Altitude: 4750m; Grade: 2A; Character of route: Mixed ice and rocks (mostly ice).

Route: From the west by icy pillows, by left or right ranges on the top of tower. 

Individual Gear: Full ice climbing equipment (crampones, iceaxes, icescrews), sit harness, helmet, ropes and loops, rock climbing equipment (stoppers and friends, ropebrake, self-protection loop, clumps). Glasses, first-aid kit, radiostations, flashlight are necessary.
Individual clothes: Storm or climbing waterproof, plastic boots, gloves, mittens, hat, polartec jacket, socks.
Rescue items: Bivaksack, rescue sheet, first aid and repair kits, red rockets.
Food: Dry fruits and vegetables, nuts, chocolate, biscuits, crackers, water. 
Time: Ascent: min-4h, max-6h. Descent: min-2h, max-5h

Peak: Corona; Altitude: 4810m; Grade: 3A Character of route: The 1st one is from the saddle between the 1st and the 2nd towers, traversing trough the 2nd tower on the top of the 3rd.